RX7 FC mods

[megotmea7]

RX7 - FC3S is prob more of a drift car then a track/quarter mile.
RX7 - FD3S is what ur looking for if ur going for quarter mile run's.

the FC is actually a better drag car as it is cheaper and its suspention is reletivly easily modified to a ford live axle. i is also a pretty good handling car thos and would be just as at home on a road coarse. the FD is actually a better hadling car, its actually just about as close as you can come to a real road race car as far as japanese sports carse come, it handles, brakes, accelerates as good or better than almost every car you can think of within reason. i would make an FD a road coarse car, but they can be modified to do good on the track also that is un questonable.

Enigne swap: i belive that a 20B or a Boxer 4 would be good enough for the FD.

a 20b IS a good swap but when you take cost into account ($10k to get one in there and running properly) it really isnt worth it, sure you get a rotary with some torque but for less money you could have a V8 under the hood and more torque than you'd ever need. and the boxer 4? talk about a downgrade if your thinking about a 4 cyl may as well keep the 13b-rew more power and it will be just as reliable at a given power level

Lightened rotors

not nessesary, unless you have money to blow or are trying to extract the absolut maimum performance out of a rotary(under 500hp isnt maximum performance )

New, stronger gearbox

will not be nessesary for the mods you listed

If you decide to run mid-high boost you should really invest in new apex seals.

actually the stock seals are just about the best you can get, the cheapest upgrades will put you pretty light in the pockets(personal experience), $1200 for a 2 peice set of 6 and all they will do is reduce wear on your housing at higher seal sping pressures, for a street application the stock seals and spris will seal fine and hold up to any amount of boost you can thro at them, the real killer of apex seals is detonation and not even the best set of seals will save ou motor if you ping it one good time. and i wouldnt worry about spending too much money on making a 1b-t fast, after about 350hp the dowels start to fail and you ave to swap in a 13b-rew to make anymore power reliably

PP's, although they do eat through the gas due to the port size, can be fairly reliable, the housing are basically drilled through the side, and peripheral ports are shoved in. Depending on the thickness of the P port walls, the life of your engine will be comprimised. Thick walls=smaller port=less power and longer engine life.

i would not recomend a PP for the street, hell a bridgeport is pushing it as far as reliability goes. apex seal life is compramised with a PP and the compound they use to fill in the original side housig ports is not as durable as the rest of the housing, and water seal can be compramised with a bridgeport. a street port is called that for a reason.

Also with a PP, you will find it hard to drive on the street. It will idle around 2000rpm. Though I've heard somewhere that PP's can be driven on the street easily...i'd like to know more about that...

unacceptable, it sounds mean granted but the idle alone should detour you, plus the added wear on your clutch from trying to tool around town like that...

[Mattg]

My dad and I race an 83 RX-7
It looks somewhat like this

[charged]

You can get 350hp very reliably from a 13b Bp without to many hassles,come over to Adelaide and I can hook you up with some people in the know.
BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP,BRAP

[megotmea7]

yes, 350hp i about as far as i would take a 13b-t, much over that and you start testing dowel strength, if you want big power go 13b-rew
as far as a brfge port, yes their awesome, and yes they make power, but there are less reliable than say, a nice street port. if you want a motor that lasts mabe 20k or less then go for it

[charged]

These guys I know make up their own special apex seals,re-dowell etc,he's even got a 13b rotor with Motec ems on his skiboat,one of their customer cars is a genuine Rx8 Series 6 SP Bathurst edition,DROOL

[fpv_gtho]

you mean RX7 bathurst edition

[Fritz]

what is needed to make the 13B do 350HP, and how often should the engine get a overhaul???

[megotmea7]

These guys I know make up their own special apex seals,re-dowell etc,he's even got a 13b rotor with Motec ems on his skiboat,one of their customer cars is a genuine Rx8 Series 6 SP Bathurst edition,DROOL

yea, Illinatti makes a great set of ceramic apex seals(whats in my new motor), their smooth as glass(better housing wear) supposedly stronger than the iron stockers and when they do go some say they shatter into smaller peices instead of turning into red hot iron shards flying thru your turbo and shredding it possibly minimizing turbo damage. then theres carbon seals which are harder than shit and dig grooves into your housing, their alot stronger. the thing is regardless of how strong your seals are if you ping your motor a few good times their going, and as far as power handling and running strength, they may be stronger but no one has ran so much boost to blow their iron seals(without detonation) so it in a way is a waste of money. then theres the 3mm seal "upgrade" which is just a way for engine builders to re-use old rotors. they mill out the seal valley and any imperfections in the 2mm groove and put larger seals in. if the milling process isnt perfect your looking at another rebuild soon after the new seals. and 3mm seals will shatter just as fast as 2mm seals. they also need higher tension springs to maintain low RPM sealing which may increase housing wear as well. basically the best seals you can get are the stock iron 2mm ones, their really cheap compared to the alternatives and they will do the same job just as well. and 3mm seals are just a fancy way to get screw'd while under the impression of getting an upgrade. i wne twith a set of ceramic seals as they added benifit of their strength is they can be used thru several rebuilds unlike the iron stockers and will also wear less on the housing further reducing rebuild cost

[megotmea7]

and ive heard of the reworked dowels, i have mixed feelings, yes it saves you the trouble of a 13b-wrew swap and the expense but at the same time after the dowels are teken care of the the 13b-t housings weaknesses start to show at higher power levels so i think its a better investment to just run a 13b-rew if your looking for power, or an LS1

[megotmea7]

what is needed to make the 13B do 350HP, and how often should the engine get a overhaul???

upgraded fuel system, a port job would help greatly, a decent turbo setup, the basics(exhaust/intake), some sort of engine management or fuel control, id go with a decent knock sensor to protect your motor and turbo. after that you'd make about 350hp, then you'd need a clutch to handle the power, suspention, brakes, etc. to be upgraded. BUT you could get 350hp easily out of a RX-7 with a simple $2800 conversion kit, $3000 worth fo LS1 and T56, and some do it yourself labor to do the swap, then you'd have around 350hp at the crank and 500hp a few hundered dollars away

[charged]

you mean RX7 bathurst edition

I thought the sp are the ones they raced at Bathurst,this things still got the dry break filling system through the rear perspex cover.I would sell my children for it any offers

[fpv_gtho]

You said it was an RX-8 before though

[charged]

You said it was an RX-8 before though

Fingers too fat for the key board,its definetly a RX 7

[Falcon500]

Yeh im goin the turboII model. probably a 89 or 90ish. not pre 89 anyway, 5k is for the mods. im lookin at between 7500 and 10k for the car itself, itll come with an exhaust system but probably not much else. so yeh justsomething thatll pull a quick time but is still everyday use driveable (does that make sense )

Good luck for that price...nobloody joke Fast and the furious imports was asking $13,000 for a series4 and your looking at a more desirable series 5 here....A series 5 has been at the top of my list for a good long time and i have been doing alot of reserch into them even private sales for ordinary models see prices around $13k...if you can find a series 5 for this price here id like to se it

And while no master with the cars i intend on getting an 8k loan to bring my limit up to 18k get my mitts on one (ohhh how i want a savanah ((spelling? lol)) and they only have top seats to my knowlage) and with the money left over ill probly only do a few basics and then carry on with more saveing....im after a set of exaust,Cold air intake,pod filter, new ignition, Beffier plug leads and platinum plugs...all simple stuff but im not after no barnstormer yet.

[85RX7]

an 8k loan! The bank wont lent u 8k they?