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Thread: StopTech Stage 2

  1. #1
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    StopTech Stage 2

    Ok guys so i was told that the G35 would need some new rotors and pads in the rear. Pads are glazed rotors are rusted. Stealer dealer wants $500. i did my research found a bunch of DIY's and am gonna attempt this myself. I found a good set of rotors and pads. StopTech Stage 2. Comes with Rotors (i got slotted) pads and stainless steel braided lines. The package was $615. shipping would have made it about $75 more so close to $700. I found a guy who was selling a set that was sent to him, the wrong set for his G so he wanted to sell them. He sold them for $525 picked up in long island. The rotors look good and instead of getting AXXIS Ultimate pads i got HAWK HPS brake pads which are supposed to be really good ceramic pads that bite well and dust less. I lack any of the box instructions (guessing there were none). I know its going to be a lot of work for first time so I plan on taking my time. Now one front and one rear rotor have a groove in part of the outside of the rotor. do you think this is to tell sides or just machined out for balancing purposes? Are any of you familiar with these rotors. Any tips or advice before i embark on this endeavor? I know not to get brake fluid on paint and stuff. is it difficult to change lines? i have no instructions for that either. I was just gonna try to wing it and see!

    StopTech : Performance Brake Kits
    Gone:
    09 Ducati Monster 696
    09 Audi Q5 3.2
    03 Infiniti G35 Sedan
    07 Honda Civic Coupe LX 5spd

    Current:
    10 BMW 335d
    12 Audi Q5 2.0t
    10 VW Jetta TDI
    11 Ducati Monster 796

  2. #2
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    When you play with brake lines and whatnot you'll need to be bleeding the system to get rid of any air bubbles, so before disconnecting anything make sure you have the things you'll need for that. Not sure about the groove.. presumably the slots aren't symmetrical so there's a left and a right one...
    Life's too short to drive bad cars.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolieman1220 View Post
    is it difficult to change lines?
    Bleed all fluid out of system. Undo and remove old lines. Fit new lines. Fill fluid reservoir and bleed system.
    Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death...
    – Hunter Thompson

  4. #4
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    And if you spill any brke fluid on anything, don't wipe it off, wash it off with lots of water.
    Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death...
    – Hunter Thompson

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndclasscitizen View Post
    And if you spill any brke fluid on anything, don't wipe it off, wash it off with lots of water.
    Better yet, don't spill brake fluid on anything.
    And drive the car real slow in an open area when you're finished... brakes are definitely not something you want to work on without being careful.

  6. #6
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    Expertvillage.com has a series of educational videos that may help you. Jack stands are cheap.

    rotor replacement

  7. #7
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    FYI, stainless steel braided brake lines are not recommended for street use. Most kits you can buy and not DOT approved, and many people have claimed brake failure after about a year of use due to contaminates getting inside the braiding and wearing against the actual line. Some SS braided lines are actually coated with plastic to prevent this. Just something to be aware of.

    Also, when you get the new pads and rotors on you will need to 'bed' them in. You can Google the process or your pad vendor may have their own recommendations:

    bedding in brakes - Google Search
    Last edited by Alastor; 10-27-2008 at 10:40 AM.
    "In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are not."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alastor View Post
    FYI, stainless steel braided brake lines are not recommended for street use. Most kits you can buy and not DOT approved, and many people have claimed brake failure after about a year of use due to contaminates getting inside the braiding and wearing against the actual line. Some SS braided lines are actually coated with plastic to prevent this. Just something to be aware of.

    Also, when you get the new pads and rotors on you will need to 'bed' them in. You can Google the process or your pad vendor may have their own recommendations:

    bedding in brakes - Google Search
    The stainless steel lines i have are plastic covered in plastic so i hope that will be good for me. i do have the bed in instructions so i should be good to go. i'll get back this weekend on how it went!
    Gone:
    09 Ducati Monster 696
    09 Audi Q5 3.2
    03 Infiniti G35 Sedan
    07 Honda Civic Coupe LX 5spd

    Current:
    10 BMW 335d
    12 Audi Q5 2.0t
    10 VW Jetta TDI
    11 Ducati Monster 796

  9. #9
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    I would suggest you do this somewhere not on your property. Lessens the risk of spilling brake fluid onto your property. I recently changed a friends rotors and brakes and we did it in a parking lot because of this reason. Hope it all goes well and I second to motion to drive slowly pressing the brake to test its effectiveness.
    "Horsepower sells motor cars, but torque wins motor races."
    -Carrol Shelby

  10. #10
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    If you have to ask a internet forum how to do it, you really should think about having someone do it for you. Learn off of them, then attempt on your own. Do you have the tools to do a job like this thoroughly?
    "We went to Wnedy's. I had chicken nuggest." ~ Quiggs

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv View Post
    If you have to ask a internet forum how to do it, you really should think about having someone do it for you. Learn off of them, then attempt on your own. Do you have the tools to do a job like this thoroughly?
    the only tool i lack is a torque wrench which i think i'll purcahse because its good to have especially to put wheels and tires on. i've seen it done and i have a lot of DIY experience. I just wanted to know if you guys had any good advice or tips which you def do for me and also what you think of the kit and if you have experience with it
    Gone:
    09 Ducati Monster 696
    09 Audi Q5 3.2
    03 Infiniti G35 Sedan
    07 Honda Civic Coupe LX 5spd

    Current:
    10 BMW 335d
    12 Audi Q5 2.0t
    10 VW Jetta TDI
    11 Ducati Monster 796

  12. #12
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    wow...you really don't know how to change brakes????


    edit- to make me sound like less of an ass I'll give you some suggestions. Buy a vaccum pump for bleeding your brakes. You'll thank me. also make sure you bleed your master cylinder THEN the brakes once you get everything installed. BTW- I run hawk HPS on my mustang, they are a good pad. nice choice.
    Last edited by Juggs; 10-27-2008 at 08:10 PM.
    My rides:
    1999 Mustang GT

    1974 Ford Country Squire (for sale!)

    1991 Jeep Cherokee

    1970 Shelby GT500

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juggs View Post
    wow...you really don't know how to change brakes????


    edit- to make me sound like less of an ass I'll give you some suggestions. Buy a vaccum pump for bleeding your brakes. You'll thank me. also make sure you bleed your master cylinder THEN the brakes once you get everything installed. BTW- I run hawk HPS on my mustang, they are a good pad. nice choice.

    i know how to i've just never done them before! i have 2 other ppl to help m bleed. i wasn't aware i could bleed the master?
    Gone:
    09 Ducati Monster 696
    09 Audi Q5 3.2
    03 Infiniti G35 Sedan
    07 Honda Civic Coupe LX 5spd

    Current:
    10 BMW 335d
    12 Audi Q5 2.0t
    10 VW Jetta TDI
    11 Ducati Monster 796

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolieman1220 View Post
    i know how to i've just never done them before! i have 2 other ppl to help m bleed. i wasn't aware i could bleed the master?
    nah tell those people to go home. Go get a vaccum pump and you can bleed by yourself. Its much more effective and about 40 times faster. I got mine for like 25 bucks at vato-zone and its the best tool I have ever bought. When I changed to cobra brakes and steel braided lines on my mustang, I had a squishy pedal and the brakes sucked even after bleeding. Turns out I had to bleed the master cylinder too. Yes you can bleed them, in fact there is usually more than one spot to bleed on the master cyl.
    My rides:
    1999 Mustang GT

    1974 Ford Country Squire (for sale!)

    1991 Jeep Cherokee

    1970 Shelby GT500

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juggs View Post
    nah tell those people to go home. Go get a vaccum pump and you can bleed by yourself. Its much more effective and about 40 times faster. I got mine for like 25 bucks at vato-zone and its the best tool I have ever bought. When I changed to cobra brakes and steel braided lines on my mustang, I had a squishy pedal and the brakes sucked even after bleeding. Turns out I had to bleed the master cylinder too. Yes you can bleed them, in fact there is usually more than one spot to bleed on the master cyl.
    I've never heard of bleeding the master before. Usually the pneumatic bleeders will draw all the air out of the whole system via the calipers/wheel cylinders.
    "We went to Wnedy's. I had chicken nuggest." ~ Quiggs

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